Systems, methods and software for manufacturing an article of apparel

ABSTRACT

Apparel patterns may be generated as a function of custom apparel information provided by a user, such as one or more measurements, colors, etc., such that the user can have apparel custom-knitted to their particular size and shape without having to acquiesce the high expense and long wait times typically associated with custom-fit clothing. After a custom apparel pattern is generated, a custom-knitted article can be manufactured based on the pattern by transmitting appropriate information to a knitting machine. Data produced while generating custom apparel patterns can be stored and used to optimize and improve the manufacturing of customized knitwear for subsequent users. Further, such data can be shared with third parties such that manufacturers or others can utilize one or more beneficial aspects of the present disclosure without having to implement all of the functionality that would otherwise be required to obtain such benefits.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation application of U.S. application Ser.No. 16/513,484, filed Jul. 16, 2019, which is a continuation in part ofU.S. application Ser. No. 15/511,188, filed Mar. 14, 2017, now U.S. Pat.No. 10,351,982, issued Jul. 16, 2019, which is a national stageapplication claiming priority to International Application NumberPCT/US2015/050214, filed Sep. 15, 2015, which claims priority to U.S.Application No. 62/050,524, filed Sep. 15, 2014, all of which are hereinincorporated by reference.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention generally relates to the field of clothingmanufacture with computer-controlled machinery. In particular, thepresent invention is directed to systems, methods, and software formanufacturing a custom, one-off, or on-demand knitted article usingautomated knitting machines.

BACKGROUND

Various techniques have been developed to address the fact that genericsizes (e.g., small, medium, large) do not provide a sufficient level ofgranularity to allow for customers of varying shapes and sizes to findaffordable clothing that fits well. To avoid generic sizing, customerscan obtain custom-fit clothing by employing the services of a tailor,who typically takes a customer's measurements and manually fabricatesclothing for the customer, often using generically-sized clothingpatterns as a starting point. However, tailors often charge relativelyhigh prices for such services and can only produce a limited quantity ofclothes in a given period, which can result in customers purchasingitems that have a less-than-ideal fit in order to save money or time.

Creating custom-fit knit clothing has further complexities, which limitits commercial use. With knit clothing, characteristics of the yarn, thewales and courses per inch, the knit pattern chosen, and other aspectsof knitting a garment, all influence its construction. For thesereasons, among others, the volume production of knit garments customizedto a person's size, yarn preferences, knit pattern and other attributesfaces barriers of sufficient magnitude that such volume production hasnot occurred in the garment industry. Further, the characteristicsmentioned above require a knitting machine configured to manufacture aknitted article with those specific characteristics. Knitting multipledifferent style knitted articles with the same machine may thereforerequire manually reconfiguring the machine between articles.

SUMMARY OF THE DISCLOSURE

In one implementation, the present disclosure is directed to a method ofgenerating a custom apparel pattern. The method performed by acustom-knitting system, which could include a system configured toproduce custom, one-off, and on-demand knitted articles, includesreceiving first custom apparel information from a user; generating firstknitting information as a function of the first custom apparelinformation; generating a first custom apparel pattern as a function ofthe first custom apparel information and the first knitting information;and storing the first custom apparel pattern in a custom apparel patterndatabase.

In another implementation, the present disclosure is directed to amethod of automatedly generating a custom apparel pattern for a piece ofknitwear. The method performed by a custom-knitting system includesreceiving first custom apparel information from a user via a graphicaluser interface communicatively coupled with a custom apparel apparatus;automatedly generating, at the custom apparel apparatus, first knittinginformation as a function of the first custom apparel information;automatedly generating, at the custom apparel apparatus, a first customapparel pattern as a function of the first custom apparel informationand the first knitting information; and automatedly storing the firstcustom apparel pattern in a custom apparel pattern database associatedwith the custom-knitting system.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

For the purpose of illustrating the invention, the drawings show aspectsof one or more embodiments of the invention. However, it should beunderstood that the present invention is not limited to the precisearrangements and instrumentalities shown in the drawings, wherein:

FIG. 1 is a flow diagram illustrating a method of generating a customapparel pattern;

FIG. 2 is a high-level block diagram illustrating an exemplarycustom-knitting system that may be used to implement the method of FIG.1;

FIG. 3 is a flow diagram illustrating a method of generating dynamicapparel patterns;

FIG. 4 is a flow diagram illustrating a method of generating customapparel patterns in accordance with a plurality of body types;

FIGS. 5A and 5B illustrate a flow diagram of a particular implementationof generating a custom apparel pattern;

FIG. 6 is a flow diagram illustrating another particular implementationof generating a custom apparel pattern;

FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram illustrating exemplary breakdown lines ofshaping placement, pattern measurement specifications, and repeated oromitted cycle placement in accordance with an embodiment of the presentdisclosure;

FIG. 8 is an exemplary points of measure table according to anembodiment of the present disclosure;

FIG. 9 is a schematic diagram illustrating an exemplary front patternpiece breakdown in accordance with an embodiment of the presentdisclosure;

FIG. 10 is a schematic diagram illustrating an exemplary neck openingpiece breakdown in accordance with an embodiment of the presentdisclosure; and

FIG. 11 is a block diagram of a computing system that can be used toimplement any one or more of the methodologies disclosed herein and anyone or more portions thereof.

FIG. 12 is a diagrammatic view of a computing system for facilitatingthe manufacturing of a custom, one-off, or custom knitted article.

The drawings are not necessarily to scale and may be illustrated byphantom lines, diagrammatic representations and fragmentary views. Incertain instances, details that are not necessary for an understandingof the embodiments or that render other details difficult to perceivemay have been omitted.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

At a high level, aspects of the present disclosure are directed tosystems, methods, and software for manufacturing a custom-knittedarticle through the use of automated knitting machines which create anarticle of precise shape. In various embodiments, an initial and/orcustom apparel pattern may be generated as a function of custom apparelinformation provided by a user, such as one or more measurements,colors, etc., such that the user can have an article of apparelcustom-knitted to their particular size and shape without having toacquiesce the high expense and long wait times typically associated withcustom-fit clothing provided by a tailor. After a custom apparel patternis generated, a custom-knitted article can be manufactured based on thepattern by transmitting appropriate information to a knitting machine.Data produced in the process of generating custom apparel patterns canbe stored and used to optimize and improve the process of generatingcustom apparel patterns for subsequent users. Further, such data can beshared with third parties such that manufacturers or others can utilizeone or more beneficial aspects of the present disclosure without havingto implement all of the functionality that would otherwise be requiredto obtain such benefits. The present disclosure provides a number ofsolutions, many of which are necessarily rooted in computer technology,to overcome various problems extant in the art, many of which arisespecifically in the realm of computer-aided manufacturing (CAM)software.

Referring now to the drawings, FIG. 1 illustrates an exemplary method100 of generating a custom apparel pattern. Method 100 may beimplemented in an apparatus, such as in exemplary custom apparelapparatus 200 within custom-knitting system 204 of FIG. 2, using acomputing system, such as computing system 700 of FIG. 7 or a network ofsuch or similar computing systems (e.g., a wide-area network, a globalnetwork (such as the Internet), and/or a local area network, amongothers), that is generally: 1) programmed with instructions forperforming steps of a method of the present disclosure; 2) capable ofreceiving and/or storing data necessary to execute such steps; and 3)capable of providing any user interface that may be needed for a user tointeract with the custom apparel apparatus, including setting the systemup for a custom apparel generating session and viewing any comparativeinformation produced, among other things. Those skilled in the art willreadily appreciate that aspects of the present disclosure can beimplemented with and/or within any one or more of numerous devices,ranging from self-contained devices, such as a smartphone, tablet,computer, laptop computer, desktop computer, server, or web-server, to anetwork of two or more of any of these devices. Fundamentally, there isno limitation on the physical construct of the custom-knitting system,as long as it can provide one or more of the features and functionalitydescribed herein. In some embodiments, depending on specificimplementation, one or more steps of method 100 and/or any othermethod(s) incorporating features/functionality disclosed herein may beimplemented substantially in real-time. FIGS. 2 and 7, described morefully below, illustrate an exemplary custom-kitting system 204 andcomputer system 700, respectively, that can be used to implement varioussteps of method 100 and/or any other method incorporatingfeatures/functionality disclosed herein.

Prior to describing exemplary method 100, parts of custom-knittingsystem 204 will first be described to provide context for method 100.Referring to FIG. 2, system 204 may include a custom apparel apparatus200 for generating custom apparel patterns, which may comprise software208 and memory 212. Memory 212 may represent any part or the entirety ofthe memory used by custom apparel apparatus 200 in providing itsfunctionality. Depending upon the particular implementation at issue,memory 212 may be volatile memory, such as primary storage memory (e.g.,random-access memory (RAM) or cache memory, etc.), non-volatile memory,such as secondary storage memory (e.g., a magnetic drive, optical drive,etc.), and any combination thereof and in any number of memory devices.Those skilled in the art will readily understand the types ofmemory(ies) needed for memory 212 for any particular instantiation of acustom apparel apparatus of the present invention.

Software 208 may be considered to include a custom apparel module 216for processing data and performing calculations and a custom appareluser interface 220 that users 224(1) to 224(N), such as “User 1” 224(1),“User 2” 224(2), “User 3” 224(3), and up to any number of users(designated by “User N” 224(N)), may manipulate or access, for examplevia email or other appropriate means, such as an appropriate graphicaluser interface, which may be communicatively coupled with custom apparelapparatus 200 and provided directly via software 208 or indirectlythrough a separate and/or third party website, among others, in order toprovide the software with custom apparel information 228. For example,users 224(1) to 224(N) may access custom apparel interface 220 viaanother system or apparatus (e.g., a home computer connected to theInternet) or directly via one or more user input devices (e.g.,keyboard, mouse, etc.) associated with custom apparel apparatus 200.Custom apparel information 228 provided by users may include sizinginformation, such as one or more measurements, color information, and/orother constraints or requirements a user provides to specify the customapparel they require.

It is noted that while the term “module” is used herein, this term isnot intended to require any particular configuration of thecorresponding software code. For example, “module” should not beconstrued to mean that the software code is embodied in a discrete setof code independent of the software code for software 208. Rather, theterm “module” is used herein merely as a convenient way to refer to theunderlying functionality.

Software 208 may further include a third party interface 232 that thirdparties 236(1) to 236(N), such as “Third Party 1” 236(1), “Third Party2” 236(2), “Third Party 3” 236(3), and up to any number of third parties(designated by “Third Party N” 236(N)), may manipulate or access inorder to provide information to or request information from customapparel apparatus 200. Third parties 236(1) to 236(N) may compriseclothing designers, manufacturers, or other entities. For example, thirdparties 236(1) to 236(N) may in some cases desire to utilize customapparel apparatus 200 to generate custom apparel in much the same way atypical user, such as “User 1” 224(1), might use the apparatus; however,in other cases, the third parties may merely draw information, such asportions of one or more databases, from the custom apparel apparatus foruse in generating custom apparel or other products using one or morethird party systems. For example, third parties 236(1) to 236(N) mayaccess custom apparel interface 220 via another system or apparatus(e.g., a workstation connected to the Internet) or directly via one ormore user input devices (e.g., keyboard, mouse, etc.) associated withcustom apparel apparatus 200.

After a user, such as “User 1” 224(1), provides custom apparelinformation 228 to software 208 of custom apparel apparatus 200 viacustom apparel user interface 220, custom apparel module 216 maygenerate one or more custom apparel patterns, such as custom apparelpatterns 240(1) to 240(N), and store the custom apparel patterns incustom apparel pattern database 244 in memory 212. As an intermediatestep between receiving custom apparel information 228 from a user andgenerating one or more custom apparel patterns 240(1) to 240(N), customapparel module 216 may generate initial apparel patterns as a functionof the custom apparel information and store the initial apparel patternsin initial apparel pattern database 248. In some embodiments, custom andinitial apparel patterns may include the custom apparel informationbased upon which they were generated such that the two can be correlated(e.g., using machine learning and/or regression analysis algorithms) togenerate higher-quality custom apparel. As used herein, generally,patterns specify all (or at least a preponderance of) requiredmanufacturing details of articles while other information, such ascustom apparel information, may only partially specify suchmanufacturing details. Memory 212 may also contain information regardingfinal gauge, fiber type, garment shrink, stitch type, and yarn shrinkfactors 252, which custom apparel module 216 may utilize in generatingcustom apparel patterns. Such final gauge, fiber type, garment shrink,stitch type, and yarn shrink factors 252 may comprise industry-standardinformation and/or information derived from the performance of customapparel apparatus 200.

Software 208 of custom apparel apparatus 200 may interface with one ormore knitting machines, such as knitting machine 256, and/or knittingCAM software, such as knitting CAM software 260, as appropriate, inorder to produce a custom-knitted article. Notably, automated knittingmachines that create the exact shape of the article (e.g., apparel orgarment) or the exact article itself may be satisfactorily employed,although other types of knitting machines, such as those typically usedin “cut and sew” manufacturing, may also be used. In some cases,knitting machine 256 and/or custom apparel apparatus 200 may compriseknitting CAM software, allowing software 208 to directly interface withthe knitting machine. When, however, knitting machines must becontrolled using external knitting CAM software, such as knitting CAMsoftware 260, the software of custom apparel apparatus 200 may interfacewith such CAM software in order to cause the knitting machine to producea custom-knitted article as a function of a custom apparel pattern, suchas “Custom Apparel Pattern 1” 240(1).

For the sake of completeness, it is noted that the unlabeled arrows inFIG. 2 represent temporary and/or permanent data connections that enabledata communication between various components of custom-knitting system204. These connections may be implemented in the form of, for example,data buses, Internet connections, local network connections, and/or anyother connections between electronic devices or portions of one or moredevices.

With the context of custom-knitting system 204 established and referringagain to FIG. 1, and also FIG. 2, method 100 may begin at step 105, atwhich first custom apparel information is received from a user. Asdescribed above, a user, such as “User 1” 224(1) may provide such customapparel information to software 208 of custom apparel apparatus 200 viacustom apparel user interface 220. After receiving such custom apparelinformation, at step 110, custom apparel apparatus 200 may utilizecustom apparel module 216 to generate first knitting information as afunction of the first custom apparel information. Such knittinginformation may comprise particular measurements and/or generalspecifications for producing a custom-knitted article in accordance withthe custom apparel information. For example, if a user provides ageneric overall size, such as small, medium, or large, a neckmeasurement, and a color as custom apparel information 228, customapparel module 216 may produce knitting information at step 110comprising final gauge, fiber type, garment shrink, stitch type, and/oryarn shrink factors determined as a function of the custom apparelinformation. Additionally or alternatively, custom apparel module 216may produce knitting information at step 110 as a function of one ormore of final gauge, fiber type, garment shrink, stitch type, and/oryarn shrink factors, which may be partially or wholly predetermined.Custom apparel apparatus 200 may store knitting information generated atstep 110 in a temporary portion of memory 212, in custom apparel patterndatabase 244, and/or elsewhere (such as the portion of memory 212dedicated to final gauge, fiber type, garment shrink, stitch type, andyarn shrink factors 252), as appropriate.

At step 115, custom apparel module 216 may generate a first customapparel pattern, such as “Custom Apparel Pattern 1” 240(1), as afunction of the first knitting information generated at step 110 and thefirst custom apparel information received at step 105, although it isnoted that the first custom apparel information may in some cases onlyindirectly influence the custom apparel pattern through its effect onthe first knitting information. The first custom apparel pattern maycomprise particular measurements and/or general specifications forproducing a custom-knitted article, optionally as well as one or more ofa final gauge, fiber type, garment shrink, stitch type, and/or yarnshrink factor, in accordance with the first custom apparel informationreceived at step 105 and first knitting information generated at step110. In some embodiments, custom apparel module 216 may generate customapparel patterns by analyzing knitting information, such as one or moreof a final gauge, fiber type, garment shrink, stitch type, and/or yarnshrink factor, in the context of custom apparel information. Suchanalysis may involve executing a machine learning and/or regressionanalysis algorithm in order to generate the most appropriate customapparel pattern possible.

At step 120, custom apparel apparatus 200 may store the first customapparel pattern generated at step 115 in custom apparel pattern database244. Such a custom apparel pattern database is useful for storingapparel patterns that custom apparel module 216 can refer to in order toproduce a knitted article based on such stored apparel patterns, such aswhen a user wishes to reorder a piece of apparel or when a user providescustom apparel information that the custom apparel module determines tobe compatible with a stored apparel pattern originally produced foranother user (in order to optimize processing speed and eliminateunnecessary processing operations). Further, such a custom apparelpattern database can be useful for third parties 236(1) to 236(N), suchas “Third Party 1” 236(1), as such third parties can utilize the customapparel patterns stored therein to produce custom apparel similar tocustom apparel that might be produced by custom apparel apparatus 200itself. This can enable users to order custom articles from thirdparties that would otherwise not be able to provide such custom articleswithout utilizing an apparatus like custom apparel apparatus 200.

Accordingly, part or all of custom apparel pattern database 244 may beaccessible by one or more third parties 236(1) to 236(N) via third partyinterface 232, either for a one-time fee or through a subscription. Insome embodiments, third parties 236(1) to 236(N) may be able to accesscustom apparel pattern database 244 to obtain one or more custom apparelpatterns, but such custom apparel patterns may be provided in anencrypted format such that a decrypting or interpreting program must beused to translate the encrypted information to instructions for aknitting machine or knitting CAM software. This can allow for sale orlease of unencrypted portions of custom apparel pattern database 244 fora higher price and sale or lease of encrypted portions of the customapparel pattern database for a relatively lower price, allowing thirdparties to utilize advantages of custom apparel apparatus 200 to variousextents based on their particular objectives and capabilities.

Referring now to FIG. 3, after custom apparel module 216 produces acustom apparel pattern (or initial apparel pattern, as described furtherbelow), the pattern may be converted to a dynamic apparel patternthrough method 300 such that it can be easily modified to conform tocustom apparel information that may specify a slightly differentarticle. At step 305, custom apparel module may receive one or morestandard apparel patterns, such as a custom apparel pattern or initialapparel pattern, from, e.g., memory 212. At step 310, custom apparelmodule 216 may generate one or more dynamic apparel patterns as afunction of the one or more standard apparel patterns. For example, aparticular custom apparel pattern may specify particular neck and torsomeasurements; at step 310, custom apparel module 216 may specify theextent to which that particular custom apparel pattern may be modifiedto fit different neck and/or torso measurements. In some embodiments, arange of values may be associated with each measurement or aspect of astandard apparel pattern that can be modified to adhere to differentcustom apparel information from the custom apparel information that wasoriginally used to generate the standard apparel pattern. Thisfunctionality can help to optimize processing speed and eliminateunnecessary processing operations by allowing an apparel pattern thatmostly conforms to a set of custom apparel information to be modified tofit that custom apparel information rather than requiring a completelynew apparel pattern to be generated. In order to allow such dynamicapparel patterns to be utilized in the future, at step 315, customapparel module 216 may store the one or more dynamic apparel patternsgenerated at step 310 in an apparel pattern database, such as customapparel pattern database 244 or initial apparel pattern database 248.

Referring now to FIG. 4, in order to generate apparel patterns, such ascustom, initial, and/or dynamic apparel patterns, that fit a largecross-section of a given population (so as to minimize the amount ofprocessing required to produce apparel patterns), a method of generatingcustom apparel patterns in accordance with a plurality of body types,such as method 400, can be utilized. At step 405, custom apparel module216 may receive custom apparel information and extended sizinginformation (e.g., one or more particular measurements) for each of aplurality of body types (such as may be associated with generic overallsizes of small, medium, and large, among others). At step 410, customapparel module 216 may generate one or more custom apparel patterns foreach body type as a function of corresponding custom apparelinformation, optionally using one or more steps of method 100. At step415, custom apparel module 216 may compare the one or more customapparel patterns generated at step 410 to the extended sizinginformation for corresponding body types received at step 405 and, atstep 420, adjust the one or more custom apparel patterns as a functionof the comparison(s). This allows for the custom apparel patternsgenerated as a function of custom apparel information that wouldtypically be received from users of custom apparel apparatus 200 to becompared with extended sizing information that may not be typicallyreceived from such users. By adjusting the custom apparel patterns tomatch such extended sizing information, the custom apparel patterns canbe fine-tuned to precisely match various body types. In order to allowsuch finely-tuned custom apparel patterns to be utilized in the future,at step 425, custom apparel module 216 may store the one or more customapparel patterns generated at step 420 in a custom apparel patterndatabase, such as custom apparel pattern database 244. A similar methodcan be used to generate initial apparel patterns for a plurality of bodytypes. The results of such methods, e.g., custom apparel patterns orinitial apparel patterns generated to conform to a plurality of bodytypes using a method like method 400, may be additionally processedusing a method like method 300 in order to convert the apparel patternsto dynamic apparel patterns such that they can be quickly and easilymodified to fit the widest array of body types possible for a givenpopulation.

Referring now to FIGS. 5A and 5B, a method 500 illustrating a particularimplementation of generating a custom apparel pattern will now bedescribed. At step 505, custom apparel module 216 may receive customapparel information from a user, similarly to step 105 of method 100. Atstep 510, custom apparel module 216 may generate an initial apparelpattern as a function of the custom apparel information. Such an initialapparel pattern may comprise a rough interpretation of the customapparel information and could be used to produce a knitted article,although such an article may have undesirable aesthetic qualities and/ormismatched sizing ratios. In some embodiments, custom apparel module 216may generate such an initial apparel pattern by referring to one or moreother initial apparel patterns in initial apparel pattern database 248in the process of executing a machine learning and/or regressionanalysis algorithm in order to generate the most appropriate initialapparel pattern possible. For example, custom apparel module 216 maycorrelate a set of custom apparel information associated with aparticular initial apparel pattern with a set of custom apparelinformation received from a current user through use of machine learningand/or regression analysis algorithms in order to generate an initialapparel pattern for the current user that should fit and look the best.Additionally or alternatively, custom apparel module 216 may generateinitial apparel patterns by analyzing knitting information, such as oneor more of a final gauge, fiber type, garment shrink, stitch type,and/or yarn shrink factor, in the context of custom apparel information.Such analysis may involve executing a machine learning and/or regressionanalysis algorithm in order to generate optimal results.

At step 515, custom apparel module 216 may compare the initial apparelpattern generated at step 510 to one or more pre-existing initialapparel patterns in an apparel pattern database, such as initial apparelpattern database 248. At step 520, if the initial apparel patterngenerated at step 510 does not match any of the pre-existing initialapparel patterns in the apparel pattern database, method 500 may proceedto step 525, at which custom apparel module 216 may store the initialapparel pattern in the initial apparel pattern database, after which themethod may proceed to step 530. On the other hand, if the initialapparel pattern generated at step 510 does match at least one of thepre-existing initial apparel patterns in the apparel pattern database,method 500 may proceed to step 535, at which point custom apparel module216 may use a matching pre-existing initial apparel pattern identifiedat step 515 in place of the initial apparel pattern generated at step510 and the method may proceed to step 530. In the context of method500, a pattern is considered to “match” another pattern when at leasttwo or more, but preferably three, four, or more, dimensions orspecifications of one pattern are within a predetermined range (such as10%) of another pattern, though other matching techniques could be used.By utilizing pre-existing patterns when possible and appropriate, thetotal amount of data storage and the number of calculations required foroperation of custom apparel apparatus 200 can be minimized.

At step 530, similarly to step 110 of method 100, custom apparel module216 may generate knitting information as a function of the initialapparel information received at step 505. In the case that the initialapparel pattern generated at step 510 is found to match a pre-existinginitial apparel pattern at step 515, much of the knitting informationthat would otherwise need to be generated at step 530 may already beknown, contained within, and/or associated with the matchingpre-existing initial apparel pattern. After knitting information isgenerated to the extent necessary, method 500 may proceed to step 540(see FIG. 5B), at which custom apparel module 216 may compare theinitial apparel pattern (which may be a pre-existing initial apparelpattern) and the knitting information generated at step 530 to one ormore pre-existing custom apparel patterns, such as custom apparelpatterns 240(1) to 240(N), in a custom apparel pattern database, such ascustom apparel pattern database 244. If the initial apparel pattern andknitting information are not found to match a pre-existing customapparel pattern at step 540, method 500 may proceed from step 545 tostep 550, at which custom apparel module 216 may generate a customapparel pattern as a function of the knitting information and theinitial apparel pattern and, at step 555, may store the custom apparelpattern, such as “Custom Apparel Pattern 1” 240(1), in a custom apparelpattern database like custom apparel pattern database 244. Method 500may then proceed to step 560. In some embodiments, custom apparel module216 may generate such a custom apparel pattern by referring to one ormore other custom apparel patterns in custom apparel pattern database244 in the process of executing a machine learning and/or regressionanalysis algorithm in order to generate the most appropriate customapparel pattern possible. For example, custom apparel module 216 maycorrelate a set of custom apparel information associated with aparticular custom apparel pattern with a set of custom apparelinformation received from a current user through use of machine learningand/or regression analysis algorithms in order to generate a customapparel pattern for the current user that should fit and look the best.Additionally or alternatively, custom apparel module 216 may generatecustom apparel patterns by analyzing knitting information, such as oneor more of a final gauge, fiber type, garment shrink, stitch type,and/or yarn shrink factor, in the context of an initial apparel patternand/or custom apparel information. Such analysis may involve executing amachine learning and/or regression analysis algorithm in order togenerate optimal results. Returning now to steps 540 and 545, if theapparel pattern and knitting information are not found to match apre-existing custom apparel pattern at step 540, method 500 may proceedfrom step 545 to step 565, at which custom apparel module 216 may usethe matching pre-existing custom apparel pattern rather than generatinga new custom apparel pattern and the method may proceed to step 560. Atoptional step 560, software 208 may transmit the custom apparel patterngenerated at step 550 or selected at step 565, as appropriate, to aknitting machine, such as knitting machine 256, and/or to knitting CAMsoftware, such as knitting CAM software 260, such that a custom-knittedarticle may be manufactured in conformance with the custom apparelpattern.

In FIG. 6, another particular implementation of generating a customapparel pattern is illustrated as method 600. As will be readilyapparent to those of ordinary skill in the art after reading thisdisclosure in its entirety, many of the steps of method 600 correspondto steps of methods 100, 300, 400, and 500; however, method 600incorporates manual activities, such as measuring results by hand,entering data into a spreadsheet, etc., that are not necessarilyrequired to practice various aspects of the invention, though suchactivities may be particularly helpful in initially configuring customapparel apparatus 200. Notably, database 605 may correspond to initialapparel database 248 of custom apparel apparatus 200 and database 610may correspond to custom apparel pattern database 244, although in someembodiments database 605 and 610, and even databases 244 and 248, may bestored in a single, unified database or more than two, optionallydistributed, databases, as desired and appropriate.

Particular embodiments of and considerations for creating custom-knitapparel will now be described, which may be implemented in the contextof and/or relevant to any one or more aspects of the present disclosure.

Design Development

First, apparel is judiciously designed using materials suitable for masscustomization. In order for mass customization to take place, thepresent inventors have found that the customization process should startwith the design stage, various steps of which are outlined below.

A. Source yarn. Work with suppliers to develop yarns that providerequired/desired characteristics. For example, in some embodiments, allyarns may need to have a shrinkage that is within +/−1.5%. This isbecause a first piece may be patterned to a specific shape and thenfinished (wash/dry/steam). During this finishing process, shrinkageoccurs, ultimately affecting the size of a piece of knitwear. As customfit knitwear often needs to be within ¼ inch of measurements a customerspecifies, ensuring that the shrink of yarn is standardized acrosscolors and batches can be important. Having consistent yarns withconsistent shrink allows for creating a reusable pattern. Becausepattern creation is incredibly time consuming, if consistent shrinkagecould not be expected, mass customization could not take place in anefficient manner.

B. Design fabric and determine stitch density. Determine a fabric swatchthat represents the desired appearance of the knitwear. Here, a samplemay be knitted down and finished (wash/dry/steam), and then shrink maybe measured and stitch density may be recorded, which can be used as abasis for knitwear sizing, ensuring that all pattern pieces createdaccount for this shrinkage.

C. Create a range of specifications for standardized pieces of knitwear.Mass customization can be optimized by providing a fast turnaround,i.e., the length of time from when a customer orders a piece to when thepiece is shipped. To make that happen, a sizing algorithm may be used,which may be optionally sourced from a third party and which, dependingon target demographics, may provide a number of standard sizespecifications that will most likely fit the vast majority of targetcustomers. This number can be upwards of twenty different sizes, farmore than the number of sizes offered by typical retailers. As moreinformation is gathered from customers, this algorithm may adjust thesestandard sizes to further improve fit of apparel. With an array ofstandardized sizing known before an order takes place, it is possible tocreate patterns from base measurement that can be easily adjusted whencustomization is needed. This allows for a fast turnaround for manycustom-fit pieces. For those times where an order from a customer doesnot fall into the array of standard sizes predicted or already accountedfor by the algorithm, a pattern can be created specific to theindividual. These patterns can be saved for use in case other customershave the same or similar measurements, as described in earlier portionsof the present disclosure.

Generally, the present inventors have found that the primary sizinginformation that provides the best fit for a knit top is the chestcircumference, because it dictates many aspects of proper fit of a knittop. By focusing on chest circumference as a primary indicator of fit,much of the customization of knitwear can be standardized, such as theheight of the shoulder cap, depth of armhole, etc. Through analysis ofthree-dimensional historical anthropometric body measurements, thepresent inventors have found that, e.g., for knit tops, the chestcircumference measured 1″ below armhole best mirrors what the fit of theshoulder area should be. The fit of the chest circumference and shoulderarea typically determine the shape of the armhole curve, and theshoulder cap and bicep width together should create a complementarycurve to fit into the armhole correctly. The armhole curve and theshoulder cap curve are difficult to change without interrupting thedesigned silhouette. Through an understanding of how chest circumferencemeasurements relates to shoulder cap, arm hole depth area, and otherareas that account for proper fit in the shoulder/chest area, thepresent inventors have found that it is possible to quickly and reliablypattern this area using the three-dimensional historical anthropometricbody measurements as the basis of creating a digital pattern breakdownthat, in a vast majority of cases, provides the best fit. This enablesthe manufacturing of customized knitwear to be expedited while stillachieving proper fit of apparel. The primary sizing information neededfor other styles of knitwear, such as a knit dress or knit pants, may beone or more of the following according to the style of the knitwear:chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, and/orinseam length.

D. Design the silhouette. Silhouette, which may be referred to as the“shape” of a piece of knitwear, is created. Silhouettes may be based onlatest fashion, trends, etc., to give a particular fit. For example, asilhouette may be designed for a high-waist sweater, a sweater with aboxy shape, a fitted dress, or slim trousers.

E. Design a two-dimensional (“2D”) paper pattern and then create a DPBfor custom fit knitwear based off of the 2D paper pattern, preferablytaking into consideration a combination of knowledge of concepts thatallow for optimal mass customization. The DPB is the division of the 2Dpaper pattern's perimeter into segments and the assignment of thosesegments corresponding to equations within the custom fit software.Using knowledge of traditional pattern making, designers may create a 2Dpaper pattern and apply traditional pattern making rules to the piece,while accounting for the way in which automated knitting machines knitpieces and the fact that each piece needs to be customized. Typicalknitting machines are able to add 1 stitch to the piece's perimeter towiden per knit row and combine up to half of the stitches in one row ata time to narrow a piece. These narrowing and widening actions arecalled shaping. In view of this, a 2D paper pattern is made, taking intoconsideration how the knitting machine will be shaping a knitted piece.The designer creates breakdowns on the 2D paper pattern piece whererepetitions or omissions to the number of rows being knit can be madewithout affecting the aesthetics or interrupting the overall proportionof the pattern piece that may lead to poor fit. Traditional 2D paperpattern making gives designers geometric rules that adhere to thegeneral symmetry of the human body; taking care not to break these rulesby too large of a margin can be incredibly important. The presentinventors have created rules and adjusted 2D paper patterns where theserepeated or omitted places (RS Cycles) within the piece can exist,ensuring a well-fitting garment where style is not affected bycustomization. These repetition/omission breakdowns should be madebetween the knit rows where shaping takes place. The present inventorshave discovered various areas within knitwear that are best suited forthese repetitions or omissions to occur, which include: (1) the sleevebetween the wrist and under the armpit (2) on the bodice between thebottom opening and under the armpit (3) the skirt between the hip andthe bottom opening and (4) the pant leg between the bottom opening andthe crotch level. The number of breakdowns needed can be determined bythe desired angle or curve and the frequency of widening or narrowingnecessary to achieve it. In general, considerations that should be keptin mind when patterning for customization include: (1) potential toinclude repetition areas (RS) for custom length and placement there-of;(2) fabric designs that won't be aesthetically changed by custom fit;(3) the shaping ability of the particular knitting machine to be used(fashioning frequency); and (4) stretch factor and recovery.

As shown in FIG. 7, in some embodiments, widening points can be found atintersections of wales and side seams. In view of this, the patternmakercan use stitch density to determine placement of wales. The RS/repeatcycles should fall between widening points in order to not disturb theknitting machine's shaping or the desired angle of the seam. The armholeheight steps, i.e., the number of courses knit by the machine beforenarrowing a stitch, can be determined by the ratio of the width andheight of the armhole curve, which can be determined during thepatterning stage based on the style.

Next, the custom fit software with selected DPB is ready to receive thecustomer's selections. Such custom fit software can be made toautomatedly produce the necessary inputs for a digitized knittingpattern (DKP) created by CAM software which the knitting machine uses toproperly knit down a piece. A DKP is a shape created by the CAM softwarethat is formed using the segment distances traveled in height and widthstitches on the x- and y-axis. The necessary inputs are created by thecustom fit software that can be the segment distances traveled on the x-and y-axis to form the desired shape in stitches. For example, using thespecifications of the DPB that were developed from the 2D patterndescribed above and applying the stitch density found, the custom fitsoftware is able to take a customer's selections (e.g., the style,fiber, size, and color) and produce inputs that can be entered into orotherwise provided to CAM knitting software that runs the knittingmachine. Once the custom fit software's produced inputs are provided tothe CAM knitting software, the software can create a DKP specific to thecustomization requested by customers. Aspects of design that custom fitsoftware can automatedly produce or determine include: (1) stitch numberconversions: all height value stitch number cells typically should berounded down to an even number; (2) lines for each segment of brokendown pattern perimeter, which may include: x-distance traveled institches and/or y-distance traveled in stitches; (3) whether fabric isknit using standard or 1×1 technique: if 1×1 technique is to be used,then the custom fit software may double the wales-per-inch value toaccount for the skipping of needles; (4) stitch density settings, whichcreate the dimensions for the garment a customer demands.

Provide Necessary Information to Custom Fit Software

A. Receive submission of measurements from customer, which may compriseone or more of: (1) bust/chest (one measurement; may be considered themost important measurement); (2) waist (for bespoke only); (3) dropwaist (two measurements); (4) across shoulder measurement (for bespokeonly); (5) torso length (for bespoke only); (6) arm length (fourmeasurements); (7) bicep circumference (for bespoke only); (8) idealknitwear length (e.g., high point shoulder length or “HPS”) (threemeasurements); and (9) neck (e.g., loose or standard).

B. Record customer data and determine their standard size, e.g., usingbust/chest measurement; customer's closest standard size provides thebase target measurements from the standard size pattern (e.g., armholedepth, cap height, bicep circumference, across shoulder).

C. From customer data, determine type of customization needed, e.g.,none, custom length, or bespoke (bespoke means custom length and customwidth target measurements).

D. Select an appropriate DPB for the requested style. For example, astyle may comprise a designer's silhouette and fabric structure,optionally, as well as a customer's selected yarn color(s) and fiber(s).If a customer chooses a style where no customization is needed, then theDPB for a standard size may be selected. If a custom length is required,a standard width DPB can be selected for a given style with RS cyclesand the RS cycles can be set to repeat as many times as necessary inorder to achieve the desired length. If bespoke, select a DPB for thestyle and select the closest standardized size according to chestcircumference, then in the points of measure (“POM”) table, adjust thetarget specification width of the chest and one or more of the followingparameters to tailor the garment to the individual: bottom opening,armhole depth, cap height, bicep circumference, and across shoulderlengths. Then the sizing can be stored in a pattern database to berecalled for future use on customers with similar measurements, asdescribed above.

E. Provide DPB to custom fit software and apply one or more of thefollowing changes: fiber type; yarn color(s); standard size base;customer name; and/or stitch density of 1 sq. in., including wales perinch and/or courses per inch.

F. Results calculated by custom fit software, ones of which are listedbelow, can then be input into CAM knitting machine software. If nocustomization is required, use of custom fit software is not requiredand the DKP can be used to directly knit a piece. For customers who needcustom length, inputs listed below with an (L) label can be provided tothe custom fit software. For bespoke, inputs listed below with an (L)label and a (B) label can be provided to the custom fit software.Unlabeled inputs (i.e., those without an (L) or (B) label) areautomatically generated according to the pattern created during thedesign development process. Generally, the custom fit software canautomatically compute segment distances traveled in height and widthstitches on the x- and y-axis using target measurements listed below andstitch density of fabric structure/yarn selection of desired style.

-   -   1. HPS length=Ideal knit length−height of rib trim (L)    -   2. Across chest=½ chest circumference+ease (B)    -   3. Across back=½ chest circumference+ease (B)    -   4. Front bottom opening=½ Drop waist circumference+ease (B)    -   5. Back bottom opening=½ Drop waist circumference+ease (B)    -   6. Across shoulder (B)    -   7. Armhole depth=Standard according to base size (i.e., no (B)        or (L)) or changes corresponding to cap height changes and        customer's bicep (B)    -   8. (Front & back) Neck drop=Standard according to base size    -   9. Sleeve length=Arm Length−½ Across Shoulder−height of rib trim        (L)    -   10. Cap height=Standard size (i.e., no (B) or (L)) or changes        corresponding to the difference of standard across shoulder vs.        bespoke across shoulder (B)    -   11. Bicep width=Standard according to base size (i.e., no (B) or        (L)) or ½ customer's bicep circumference+ease (B)    -   12. ½ Forearm width=Standard according to base size    -   13. ½ Wrist width=Standard according to base size    -   14. Back shoulder drop=Standard according to base size    -   15. Back shoulder width step=Standard according to base size    -   16. Side seam length=HPS length−armhole depth    -   17. Armpit bind-off=Standard    -   18. Neck vertical bind-off=Standard    -   19. Back neck safety rows width=Standard    -   20. Front neck safety rows width=Standard    -   21. Half forearm=½ *(Sleeve length−cap height)    -   22. Top sleeve safety rows=Standard according to base size    -   23. Armhole height step=Standard according to fashioning        frequency        Transfer of Data from Custom Fit Software to CAM Knitting        Machine Manufacturer Software

A. Shape, which may be stored in, e.g., .shp format, although otherformats and/or file types may be used depending on the particularknitting machines and systems being used, is created using computeraided manufacturing (CAM) software, which may be provided bymanufacturers of automated knitting machines. Such a shape may specifyone or more of:

-   -   a. Plotting points of pattern input as determined by custom fit        software for selected style and/or knit structure;    -   b. Shape function of each line (e.g., Narrowing, Widening,        Bind-off);    -   c. Narrowing/widening placement width of each line;    -   d. Fade-out width of each line;    -   e. Shape attribute modules of each line; and    -   f. Shape Edge(s) NP Values on each line.

B. Shape is placed on fabric “yardage,” which may be stored in, e.g.,.mdv format, a file type primarily associated with graphic interfacesfor processing patterns using particular knitting machines, althoughother formats and/or file types may be used depending on the particularknitting machines and systems being used.

C. Safety rows are inserted where necessary, e.g., neck opening start.

D. Yarn carrier colors are drawn in above safety row insertion, whichmay include one or more of:

a. use contrast color to differentiate split yarn carriers after neckopening;

b. allocate yarn carriers corresponding to location on program;

c. insert comment of yarn color, number of ends, Nm of yarn; and

d. set protection row yarn to clamping at fabric end.

E. Set machine slow at armpit bind off course, above and below.

F. Cut out shape.

G. Start technical processing.

H. Extract program to USB drive or otherwise store program.

Automated Knitting Machine Knits Down Piece

Once the program is input into the knitting machine, the machine isready to knit the product.

Further Discussion of Customization of Knitwear

As described above, custom fit software can use customer submitted datain combination with original designs to create garments that are fitspecifically to each individual customer. The customer-submitted datamay include selections of style, fiber, and/or color. These selectionsmay be provided in accordance with a designer's apparel collection,which may be presented to the customer via a website, kiosk, or otherinterface. Custom fit software is used for knit apparel, design elementsof which include: silhouette, pattern, fabric structure, yarn selection,and CAM Software, as described above. The silhouette can be understoodas the finished drape of the garment on a body. The pattern is composedof individual flat shapes that are joined together to form a finished,three-dimensional garment. The pattern may exist in various formsincluding (1) 2D flat paper pattern, (2) digital pattern breakdown (DPB)in custom fit software, and (3) digitized knitting pattern (DKP). Thefabric structure may comprise selected stitch combinations and/ordesigned graphic elements. The yarn selection may comprise one or moreof the fiber, the yarn gauge, and the order in which the yarn isinterlaced into the fabric structure. Together, the fabric structure andyarn selection form a unique stitch density. The stitch density is thenumber of wales per inch by the number of courses per inch, i.e., thenumber of stitches across 1″ horizontally and down 1″ vertically,respectively. CAM programs, as described herein, are files thatcommunicate with and/or control automated knitting machines.

One point of novelty of custom fit software is its ability to quicklycompute the necessary numbers/values and/or other inputs to program afile for use with the CAM software. By breaking down the designer'spattern and using the stitch density, the custom fit software translatesa customer's selections (e.g., the style, fiber and/or color of knitapparel) into a code that can be provided to CAM software to create aprogram that communicates with the automated machine.

In some embodiments, after the silhouette and pattern are determined,the pattern's perimeter can be broken down into segments. Wherever theperimeter line changes angle, a new segment can begin. Each segment isassigned a code line in the custom fit measurement software's shapecoordinates tables (see, e.g., Table II) composed of two equations inseparate cells. Cell 1 corresponds to the x-axis, and cell 2 correspondsto the y-axis. The sum of each cell, in and of itself, equals thetraveling distance on its respective axis. These equations are formedusing the technical specifications (e.g., target measurements) from thepattern, the stitch density, and the position of the end-point of thepreceding segment. The target measurements are input into the custom fitsoftware's POM table (see, e.g., FIG. 8), then the POM table's inherentequations multiply each target measurement by its corresponding stitchdensity (wales for width measurements and courses for lengthmeasurements). The equation (target measurement*stitch density)determines the number of stitches (or stitch number) required to achievethe correct measurement. The stitch number is then used to travel alongthe pattern's segments and plot the points (corners) of the pattern.

The technical specifications may be changed according to a customer'sdata entry. For example, the target sleeve length may be lengthened orshortened depending on a customer's arm length, or the target bottomopening may be widened or narrowed according to a customer's drop waistmeasurement.

Further Discussion of Custom Fit Software

The custom fit software was developed to quickly and automaticallycreate the inputs needed for the CAM software to create a DKP theknitting machine uses to properly knit down a piece to specifications.While it was developed specifically for the customization process, theinventors use it to quickly and automatically create the inputs the CAMsoftware needs when creating standardized knitwear. This custom fitsoftware is composed of four main input sections, which include:knitwear details, stitch density, points of measure, and shapecoordinate tables, each of which is further described below. The numberof lines in a shape coordinate table can be determined by the number ofsegments in the DPB.

The knitwear details are the key to the style that is being created andgive the production team the information they need to knit a piece ofknitwear on the machine. These details may include one or more of: theyarn information (e.g., Biella Wool 2×NM30/2), the color(s) (e.g.,charcoal), the size of the garment (e.g., small/custom), and/or the nameor other identifier of the customer. These details do not directlyaffect any of the calculations used in creating the piece of knitwear,and so are not strictly necessary in the customization process, but cangive the production team information that can be associated with thegarment through its production for record-keeping purposes.

The stitch density table requires user input of the number of wales perinch and courses per inch of the knit structure being used for thecustomized garment. These may be counted from the fabric swatch and mayspecify the stitches in one inch widthwise and heightwise.

TABLE I EXEMPLARY STITCH DENSITY TABLE Stitch Density: Set to inches: 4”Width: 14.75 Wales per inch 59 Wales per 4” Height: 20.75 Courses perinch 83 Courses per 4”

The user of the custom fit software may input the wales and courses perinch or they can be provided automatedly, and then the custom fitsoftware can convert that number into a 4″ (or other) stitch density,according to the CAM software required stitch density setting. The userof the custom fit software may also or alternatively choose to countusing the metric system or such counts could be provided automatedly,and the custom fit software may then determine the stitch density bycounting the number of stitches in a 10 mm square section and set thestitch density to millimeters instead of inches.

The POM table (see, e.g., FIG. 8) uses the garment specifications andconverts these measurements into stitches. Custom Fit Software can beset up to half the measurements if they are a widthwise measurement toaccount for the fact that some CAM software mirrors shapes across thex-axis, with the x-axis being the shape's center line if the shape issymmetrical. If the shape is asymmetrical, the Custom Fit Software canbe set up to follow the segments determined by the DPB.

First, the specifications can be input as inches. Then, the custom fitsoftware may multiply each specification by either the wales per inch orcourses per inch in the stitch density table, according to whether thespecification measures across the width or height respectively. Thecustom fit software may account for which stitch density is used in the“converted to stitches” column according to the orientation of thespecification. The user of the custom fit software may also choose towork in the metric system and input their specifications in millimetersif their stitch density is also set to millimeters. Those of ordinaryskill in the art will understand that appropriate conversions can beprovided to allow for hybrid imperial/US/metric measurements orconversions, among others, as desired or necessary.

For example, the “high point shoulder length” in inches (see FIG. 8) canbe multiplied by the “courses per inch,” such as that which may beincluded in a stitch density table, and the outcome can be stored as a“converted to stitches” value (see FIG. 8). Using the values in thisexample, that equation may be: (25.19*20.75)=522.69. The sum, 522.69,may be rounded to the nearest whole number (523) in cases where theknitting machine to be used can only accept whole numbers of stitchesand/or knit whole stitches.

Converting the “chest 1″ below armhole” value into stitches may requiretwo equations, because it may be a width measurement. First, the valuecan be divided in half, as shown in the “for pattern” column of FIG. 8.Second, the value in the “for pattern” column can be multiplied by“wales per inch,” such as may be included in a stitch density table, theproduct of which is represented in the “converted to stitches” column ofFIG. 8. Again using the values in this example, those equations are:(20.25/2)=10.125; and (10.125*14.75)=149.34, rounded to 149. In thisexample, the user of the custom fit software would input their desiredspecifications into the cells highlighted in dark gray in FIG. 8.However, in some embodiments, the values in the cells highlighted indark gray may not need to change. The embodiments in which the valuesmay not need to change are when the specifications have been enteredaccording to a standard size, and according to the customer'smeasurements the standard specification values do not need to bechanged. The cells not highlighted in dark gray may be determinedautomatedly as a function of the entered or automatedly provided values.For example, side seam length=high point shoulder length−armhole depthor 25.19−9.313=15.877; half forearm (height)=(sleeve length−capheight)/2, or (24.25−7.375)/2=8.4375; and armhole depth converted tostitches=inches*courses per inch or 9.313*20.75=193.

Shape coordinate tables may be composed of cells in a spreadsheet orother appropriate means that computes the x-distance to travel andy-distance to travel in the CAM software. The number of rows in such aspreadsheet may be determined by the perimeter breakdown of the garmentpattern piece. For example, a basic front pattern piece may be brokendown into six segments for the body (see Table II, below) and the neckopening element may be broken down into four segments (see Table III,below). These rows may comprise height and width cell, which may usesums from a “converted to stitches” calculation, which may be stored ina POM table like that of FIG. 8.

TABLE II EXEMPLARY BODY SHAPE COORDINATE TABLE, FRONT PATTERN PIECESegment Height (R) Width (N) 1 0 −146 2 329 −4 3 0 15 4 44 11 5 149 0End 0 124 Total 523 0 Request 523

TABLE III EXEMPLARY NECK SHAPE COORDINATE TABLE, FRONT PATTERN PIECESegment Height (R) Width (N) 1 0 −18 2 87 −36 3 5 0 End 0 55 Total 92 0Request 92

The simple front pattern piece breakdown shown in FIG. 9 illustrates theheight and width values found in shape coordinates tables like those ofTables II and III. In this example, the sweater front body piece (TableII, FIG. 9) has been broken down into six segments according to thedesigner's desired shape and how the knitting machine to be used knits apiece. The arrows in FIG. 9 represent the breakdown of each perimetersegment into a horizontal and/or vertical increase or decrease. The sizeand/or shape of these segments may be determined by specifications likethose that may be entered into the “inches” column of a POM table likethat shown in FIG. 8. In FIG. 9, segment 1 corresponds to the ½ bottomopening above the rib knit start, segment 2 corresponds to the widthincrease from bottom opening to chest 1″ below armhole and the side seamlength, segment 3 corresponds to the armpit bindoff width decrease,segments 4 correspond to the remaining width to narrow (decrease) afterthe armpit bindoff to reach the specified ½ across shoulder measurementand the height steps taken according to designer specified armholeheight steps, segment 5 corresponds to the height remainder of thearmhole depth after segments 4 height steps are reached, and segment 6corresponds to the ½ across shoulder measurement which is the remainingdistance to (0,0) (see, e.g., FIGS. 8 and 9). These 6 segmentscorrespond to the six segment rows in the Table II.

A simple neck opening piece, a shape element that can be placed on topof the front body piece (like that of FIG. 9) in the CAM knittingsoftware, an example of which is shown in FIG. 10, can be broken downinto four segments. The segments may be assigned according to thedesired neck opening shape and the shaping capabilities of the knittingmachine to be used. As shown in the example of FIG. 10, segment 1corresponds to the ½ front neck safety rows width, segment 2 correspondsto the remaining ½ neck width after safety rows and front neck dropheight minus neck bindoff height, segment 3 corresponds to the neckbindoff height, and segment 4 corresponds to the ½ neck width, which isthe remaining width distance to return to (0,0).

Each consecutive segment in FIGS. 9 and 10 may correspond to one row ofa shape coordinate numbers table, like those of Tables II and III. Insome embodiments, the custom fit software may round sums into wholenumbers to represent stitches and may show the outcome in each cell inthe “converted to stitches” column in the POM table of FIG. 8 and theheight and width columns of Tables II and III. However, one or more ofthe equations used to generate the values of these cells may usenon-rounded numbers to give the most exact outcome. As such, althoughone or more equations described below may not appear to producemathematically accurate results, because decimals are being used insideof the custom fit software, the final sum is the most accurate stitchnumber to be used in the creation of the CAM shape. In general,equations may use the values of the cells in the “converted to stitches”column of FIG. 8, which are each a sum resulting from another equationthat may be used in the POM table of FIG. 8.

Segment 1 in FIG. 9 corresponds to the first segment row of Table II.This row provides the number of stitches required for the specificationof the bottom opening of the sweater piece. The shape coordinate tableuses the front bottom opening converted to stitch numbers from FIG. 8,but that value is inverted (made negative) because the CAM software tobe used in this example uses the lines to the left of the x-axis, or(−x,y) points. The equations for the first segment row in Table II are:height=0; and width=−(front bottom opening) or −149.

Segment 2 in FIG. 9 corresponds to the second segment row of Table II.The equations for the second segment row in Table II are: height=sideseam length stitches or 329; and width=chest 1″ below armhole−bottomopening or 149−146=−4 (see FIG. 8). Segment 3 in FIG. 9 illustrates the“armpit bindoff” value converted to stitches, which is 15 (see FIG. 8).Segments 4 in FIG. 9 correspond to the third segment row of Table II.The equations for the fourth segment row in Table II are: height=armholeheight step*sum of width cell (described further below); and width=chest1″ below armhole−armpit bindoff−front across shoulder or 149−15−124=11(see FIG. 8). Segment 5 in FIG. 9 corresponds to the remainder of thearmhole depth after segments 4. The equations for the fifth segment rowin Table II are: height=armhole depth−height cell of the fourth segmentrow in Table II or 193−44=149; and width=0. Segment 6 in FIG. 9illustrates the across shoulder measurement of the pattern and the endline of the pattern. The equations for the sixth segment row in Table IIare: height=0; and width=front across shoulder.

The process of breaking down a flat pattern shape into segments may beapplied to any shape. The number of segments a pattern's perimeter isbroken down into varies according to the shape. The number of lines inthe Shape Coordinates table may be increased or decreased according tothe segments in a pattern.

It is to be noted that any one or more of the aspects and embodimentsdescribed herein may be conveniently implemented using one or moremachines (e.g., one or more computing devices that are utilized as auser computing device for an electronic document, one or more serverdevices, such as a document server, etc.) programmed according to theteachings of the present specification, as will be apparent to those ofordinary skill in the computer art. Appropriate software coding canreadily be prepared by skilled programmers based on the teachings of thepresent disclosure, as will be apparent to those of ordinary skill inthe software art. Aspects and implementations discussed above employingsoftware and/or software modules may also include appropriate hardwarefor assisting in the implementation of the machine executableinstructions of the software and/or software module.

Such software may be a computer program product that employs amachine-readable storage medium. A machine-readable storage medium maybe any medium that is capable of storing and/or encoding a sequence ofinstructions for execution by a machine (e.g., a computing device) andthat causes the machine to perform any one of the methodologies and/orembodiments described herein. Examples of a machine-readable storagemedium include, but are not limited to, a magnetic disk, an optical disc(e.g., CD, CD-R, DVD, DVD-R, etc.), a magneto-optical disk, a read-onlymemory “ROM” device, a random access memory “RAM” device, a magneticcard, an optical card, a solid-state memory device, an EPROM, an EEPROM,and any combinations thereof. A machine-readable medium, as used herein,is intended to include a single medium as well as a collection ofphysically separate media, such as, for example, a collection of compactdiscs or one or more hard disk drives in combination with a computermemory. As used herein, a machine-readable storage medium does notinclude transitory forms of signal transmission.

Such software may also include information (e.g., data) carried as adata signal on a data carrier, such as a carrier wave. For example,machine-executable information may be included as a data-carrying signalembodied in a data carrier in which the signal encodes a sequence ofinstruction, or portion thereof, for execution by a machine (e.g., acomputing device) and any related information (e.g., data structures anddata) that causes the machine to perform any one of the methodologiesand/or embodiments described herein.

Examples of a computing device include, but are not limited to, anelectronic book reading device, a computer workstation, a terminalcomputer, a server computer, a handheld device (e.g., a tablet computer,a smartphone, etc.), a web appliance, a network router, a networkswitch, a network bridge, any machine capable of executing a sequence ofinstructions that specify an action to be taken by that machine, and anycombinations thereof. In one example, a computing device may includeand/or be included in a kiosk.

FIG. 11 shows a diagrammatic representation of one embodiment of acomputing device in the exemplary form of a computer system 1100 withinwhich a set of instructions for causing a control system, such as thecustom-knitting system 204 of FIG. 2, to perform any one or more of theaspects and/or methodologies of the present disclosure may be executed.It is also contemplated that multiple computing devices may be utilizedto implement a specially configured set of instructions for causing oneor more of the devices to perform any one or more of the aspects and/ormethodologies of the present disclosure. Computer system 1100 includes aprocessor 1104 and a memory 1108 that communicate with each other, andwith other components, via a bus 1112. Bus 1112 may include any ofseveral types of bus structures including, but not limited to, a memorybus, a memory controller, a peripheral bus, a local bus, and anycombinations thereof, using any of a variety of bus architectures.

Memory 1108 may include various components (e.g., machine-readablemedia) including, but not limited to, a random access memory component,a read only component, and any combinations thereof. In one example, abasic input/output system 1116 (BIOS), including basic routines thathelp to transfer information between elements within computer system1100, such as during start-up, may be stored in memory 1108. Memory 1108may also include (e.g., stored on one or more machine-readable media)instructions (e.g., software) 1120 embodying any one or more of theaspects and/or methodologies of the present disclosure. In anotherexample, memory 1108 may further include any number of program modulesincluding, but not limited to, an operating system, one or moreapplication programs, other program modules, program data, and anycombinations thereof.

Computer system 1100 may also include a storage device 1124. Examples ofa storage device (e.g., storage device 1124) include, but are notlimited to, a hard disk drive, a magnetic disk drive, an optical discdrive in combination with an optical medium, a solid-state memorydevice, and any combinations thereof. Storage device 1124 may beconnected to bus 1112 by an appropriate interface (not shown). Exampleinterfaces include, but are not limited to, SCSI, advanced technologyattachment (ATA), serial ATA, universal serial bus (USB), IEEE 1394(FIREWIRE), and any combinations thereof. In one example, storage device1124 (or one or more components thereof) may be removably interfacedwith computer system 1100 (e.g., via an external port connector (notshown)). Particularly, storage device 1124 and an associatedmachine-readable medium 1128 may provide nonvolatile and/or volatilestorage of machine-readable instructions, data structures, programmodules, and/or other data for computer system 1100. In one example,software 1120 may reside, completely or partially, withinmachine-readable medium 1128. In another example, software 1120 mayreside, completely or partially, within processor 1104.

Computer system 1100 may also include an input device 1132. In oneexample, a user of computer system 1100 may enter commands and/or otherinformation into computer system 1100 via input device 1132. Examples ofan input device 1132 include, but are not limited to, an alpha-numericinput device (e.g., a keyboard), a pointing device, a joystick, agamepad, an audio input device (e.g., a microphone, a voice responsesystem, etc.), a cursor control device (e.g., a mouse), a touchpad, anoptical scanner, a video capture device (e.g., a still camera, a videocamera), a touchscreen, and any combinations thereof. Input device 1132may be interfaced to bus 1112 via any of a variety of interfaces (notshown) including, but not limited to, a serial interface, a parallelinterface, a game port, a USB interface, a FIREWIRE interface, a directinterface to bus 1112, and any combinations thereof. Input device 1132may include a touch screen interface that may be a part of or separatefrom display 1136, discussed further below. Input device 1132 may beutilized as a user selection device for selecting one or more graphicalrepresentations in a graphical interface as described above.

A user may also input commands and/or other information to computersystem 1100 via storage device 1124 (e.g., a removable disk drive, aflash drive, etc.) and/or network interface device 1140. A networkinterface device, such as network interface device 1140, may be utilizedfor connecting computer system 1100 to one or more of a variety ofnetworks, such as network 1144, and one or more remote devices 1148connected thereto. Examples of a network interface device include, butare not limited to, a network interface card (e.g., a mobile networkinterface card, a LAN card), a modem, and any combination thereof.Examples of a network include, but are not limited to, a wide areanetwork (e.g., the Internet, an enterprise network), a local areanetwork (e.g., a network associated with an office, a building, a campusor other relatively small geographic space), a telephone network, a datanetwork associated with a telephone/voice provider (e.g., a mobilecommunications provider data and/or voice network), a direct connectionbetween two computing devices, and any combinations thereof. A network,such as network 1144, may employ a wired and/or a wireless mode ofcommunication. In general, any network topology may be used. Information(e.g., data, software 1120, etc.) may be communicated to and/or fromcomputer system 1100 via network interface device 1140.

Computer system 1100 may further include a video display adapter 1152for communicating a displayable image to a display device, such asdisplay device 1136. Examples of a display device include, but are notlimited to, a liquid crystal display (LCD), a cathode ray tube (CRT), aplasma display, a light emitting diode (LED) display, and anycombinations thereof. Display adapter 1152 and display device 1136 maybe utilized in combination with processor 1104 to provide graphicalrepresentations of aspects of the present disclosure. In addition to adisplay device, computer system 1100 may include one or more otherperipheral output devices including, but not limited to, an audiospeaker, a printer, and any combinations thereof. Such peripheral outputdevices may be connected to bus 1112 via a peripheral interface 1156.Examples of a peripheral interface include, but are not limited to, aserial port, a USB connection, a FIREWIRE connection, a parallelconnection, and any combinations thereof.

As discussed above, the apparel apparatus interfaces with multipleknitting machines, such as knitting machine 256, either directly orthrough knitting computer-aided manufacturing (“CAM”) software whichcommunicates with and/or control automated knitting machines in order toproduce a knitted article. Exemplary automated knitting machines includeflat bed knitting machines or circular knitting machines. This includesautomated knitting machines configured to create exact shapes ofarticles or finished knitted articles themselves as well as other typesof knitting machines, such as those used in “cut and sew” manufacturing,which are configured to create portions of a knitted article which arethen cut out and sewn together to finalize the article. As furtherdiscussed above, the apparatus stores and utilizes information about theparticular knitting machines being used, such as the shaping ability ofthe particular knitting machines. In some embodiments, an apparelapparatus in communication with a plurality of knitting machines assignsapparel articles to be produced to a particular one of the plurality ofmachines based at least in part on the stored information. Suchembodiments are illustrated in FIG. 12.

FIG. 12 illustrates a knitted article manufacturing system 1200 havingan apparel apparatus 1201. The apparel apparatus 1201 is a computingsystem, such as the computer system 1100 described above, having memoryand a processor. The computing system is a single computer or a networkof multiple computers. The knitted article manufacturing system 1200 isconfigured to perform the methods described above. The knitted articlemanufacturing system 1200 manages all stages of manufacturing knittedarticles including the development 1210 of knitted articles, theordering 1220 of knitted articles, and the production 1230 of knittedarticles.

As shown in FIG. 12, in the development stage 1210 the following stepsare performed. Initially, knit design information is sent at 1212 to thesystem 1200. In some forms, the knit design information is sent at 1212to the apparel apparatus 1201. Alternatively, the system 1200 includes aseparate computing system, such as the custom apparel apparatus 200,which receives the knit design information. The knit design informationis converted 1214 into a knittable file or pattern. The knittable fileor pattern is then stored in an apparel pattern database 1216, such as acloud storage database. The apparel pattern database 1216 includes bothan initial pattern database and a custom apparel database, such as theinitial pattern database 248 and custom pattern database 244 describedabove. The apparel pattern database 1216 is communicatively coupled tothe apparel apparatus 1201 over the internet. Alternatively, the apparelpattern database 1216 is stored in the memory.

To control production, the apparel apparatus 1201 is configured toperform material management 1231 and machine management 1235. Rawmaterial availability is sent at 1232 by knitting machines and/or theinventory management systems of knitted article factories to the apparelapparatus 1201. When a factory or machine is low on a particular rawmaterial, the apparel apparatus 1201 orders at 1234 the material. Insome forms, the apparel apparatus compares current amounts of specificraw materials to predetermined reorder thresholds. When the amount of aspecific raw material is less than the reorder threshold, the apparelapparatus orders more of the material. In alternative embodiments, theapparel apparatus 1201 stores historical material usage data. Theapparel apparatus 1201 predicts future material use based on the storedhistorical data. New material is ordered based on the predicted use.

Machine management 1235 involves knitting machines and/or factoriestransmitting at 1236 information about the knitting machines to theapparel apparatus 1201. As discussed above, the information includesmachine shaping capabilities. Machine shaping capabilities include howthe particular machine is set up including what materials are loadedinto the machine, the gauge of materials used by the machine, specificrulers or other accessories included with the machine, and the machinetype. Additional information sent to the apparel apparatus 1201 includesmachine availability (such as a schedule of planned machine usage), thelocation of the machine, operating cost of the machine, the file typesreadable by the machine, and the operating efficiency of the machine.Based on the above information, the apparel apparatus 1201 sends at 1238orders to particular machines.

The system 1200 includes a user interface 1221 for managing orders. Theuser interface 1221 enables users, such as customers, to view knittedarticle options, such as styles, colors, yarn types, sizes, etc. toselect a knitted article. The apparel apparatus displays at 1222 leadtime, stock, and cost of each article based on the material managementand machine management information discussed above. In some forms, thecost displayed is a dynamic cost that is continuously updated as machineand material availability change.

The user places an order at 1224. In some forms, the customer directlyplaces the order through the user interface 1221 which can include awebsite and/or an application. In other forms, the customer places theorder to a user, such as a salesperson at an apparel store or a customerservice operator, in person, over the phone, by text, or through othercommunication means. The user then inputs the order into the system 1200via the user interface 1221.

The system 1200 compares the order to patterns in the apparel patterndatabase 1216 at 1226 to determine if customization is necessary. If theorder matches an existing pattern, the existing pattern is received bythe apparel apparatus 1201 from the apparel pattern database 1216. If noexisting pattern matches, a new custom apparel pattern is created at1228 through the methods described above. The new custom apparel patternis then stored in the apparel pattern database 1216 and also transmittedto the apparel apparatus.

The apparel apparatus 1201 sends the order, including the pattern ormachine-readable file, to a particular one of, or a set of, theplurality of knitting machines. The apparel apparatus 1201 firstdetermines which of the plurality of knitting machines is capable ofproducing the ordered apparel article based on the shaping capabilitiesof the knitting machines. If a knitting machine is not capable ofmanufacturing the apparel article as currently setup, but can bereconfigured to manufacture the apparel article, the cost and timerequired to reconfigure the knitting machine is factored in by theapparel apparatus 1201.

The apparel apparatus 1201 determines which machine or machines to usebetween the machines capable of manufacturing the apparel article basedon the manufacturing cost, lead-time, reconfiguration cost,reconfiguration time, machine location, shipping cost, and/or shippingtime. In some forms, these factors are combined to determine a finalcost and delivery date. The final cost and delivery date of multipleoptions is sent to the user such that the user can choose amanufacturing option.

The knitted article manufacturing system 1200 increases the efficiencyby which custom, one-off, or on-demand knitted articles aremanufactured. The apparel apparatus 1201 automates the process from theinitial order being received from the customer or user to the articlebeing manufactured, thus reducing the amount of overhead and middlemen.Further, utilizing a plurality of knitting machines in multiplelocations, with different shaping capabilities, and different availablematerials enables user to choose from a wider variety of knittedarticles. Distributing orders among this plurality of machines reducesmachine downtime and lead-time to manufacture articles, as well asreducing instances of reconfiguring knitting machines to satisfy one-offor small orders. Reducing the need to reconfigure knitting machinesthereby reduces the cost of the custom, one-off, or on-demand knittedarticles.

The foregoing has been a detailed description of illustrativeembodiments of the invention. Various modifications and additions can bemade without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention.Features of each of the various embodiments described above may becombined with features of other described embodiments as appropriate inorder to provide a multiplicity of feature combinations in associatednew embodiments. Furthermore, while the foregoing describes a number ofseparate embodiments, what has been described herein is merelyillustrative of the application of the principles of the presentinvention. Additionally, although particular methods herein may beillustrated and/or described as being performed in a specific order, theordering is highly variable within ordinary skill to achieve methods,systems, and software according to the present disclosure. Accordingly,this description is meant to be taken only by way of example, and not tootherwise limit the scope of this invention.

The present disclosure provides a number of solutions, many of which arenecessarily rooted in computer technology, in order to overcome variousproblems extant in the art, many of which arise specifically in therealm of CAM software. Exemplary embodiments have been disclosed aboveand illustrated in the accompanying drawings. It will be understood bythose skilled in the art that various changes, omissions and additionsmay be made to that which is specifically disclosed herein withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the present invention.

1. (canceled)
 2. An apparel apparatus for facilitating production ofapparel, the apparel apparatus comprising: a communication interface forcommunicating with a user interface and a plurality of apparelproduction machines, the communication interface configured to receiveuser apparel information from the user interface and to receive apparelproduction information of the plurality of apparel production machines;and a processing device configured to select an apparel productionmachine or machines from the plurality of apparel production machinesbased at least in part on the received user apparel information and theapparel production information, the processing device further configuredto cause the selected apparel production machine or machines to producean article of apparel.
 3. The apparel apparatus of claim 2 wherein theapparel production information includes machine production configurationcapabilities of the plurality of apparel production machines.
 4. Theapparel apparatus of claim 2 wherein the apparel production informationincludes machine production schedule availabilities of the plurality ofapparel production machines.
 5. The apparel apparatus of claim 2 whereinthe apparel production information includes material availabilityinformation of the plurality of apparel production machines.
 6. Theapparel apparatus of claim 5 wherein the processing device effects a newmaterial order for at least one of the plurality of apparel productionmachines based at least in part on the received material availabilityinformation.
 7. The apparel apparatus of claim 2 wherein the apparelproduction information includes at least one of location, operatingcosts, and operating efficiencies of the plurality of apparel productionmachines.
 8. The apparel apparatus of claim 2 wherein the communicationinterface is configured to send reconfiguration instructions to theselected apparel production machine prior to causing the selectedapparel production machine to produce the article of apparel.
 9. Theapparel apparatus of claim 2 wherein the plurality of apparel productionmachines comprises a plurality of knitting machines.
 10. The apparelapparatus of claim 2 wherein the plurality of apparel productionmachines comprises a plurality of cut and sew machines.
 11. A method ofmanufacturing an article of apparel, the method comprising: receivinguser apparel information from a user interface at an apparel apparatus,the apparel apparatus being interfaced with a plurality of apparelproduction machines; receiving machine capability information of theplurality of apparel production machines; selecting an apparelproduction machine or machines from the plurality of apparel productionmachines based at least in part on the user apparel information and themachine capability information; and transmitting apparel productioninstructions to the selected apparel production machine or machines tocause the apparel production machine or machines to make the article ofapparel.
 12. The method of claim 11 wherein the machine capabilityinformation includes information representing shaping capabilities ofthe plurality of apparel production machines.
 13. The method of claim 11further comprising receiving additional information relating to theapparel production machines selected from a group consisting of apparelproduction machine availability information, apparel production machinelocation information, material availability information, costinformation, shipping information, and combinations thereof.
 14. Themethod of claim 13 further comprising selecting the apparel productionmachine or machines from the plurality of apparel production machinesbased at least in part on the additional information.
 15. The method ofclaim 13 further comprising determining a total cost of the article ofapparel based at least in part on the additional information.
 16. Themethod of claim 15 further comprising selecting the apparel productionmachine or machines from the plurality of apparel production machinesbased at least in part on the total cost of the article of apparel. 17.The method of claim 13 further comprising determining a delivery date ofthe article of apparel based at least in part on the additionalinformation.
 18. The method of claim 17 further comprising selecting theapparel production machine or machines from the plurality of apparelproduction machines based at least in part on the delivery date of thearticle of apparel.
 19. The method of claim 11 further comprising:receiving material availability information from the plurality ofapparel production machines; and determining and transmitting a newmaterial order for at least one of the plurality of apparel productionmachines based at least in part on the material availabilityinformation.
 20. The method of claim 11 further comprising: receivinghistorical material usage information from the plurality of apparelproduction machines; and transmitting a new material order for at leastone of the plurality of apparel production machines based at least inpart on the historical material usage information.
 21. The method ofclaim 11 further comprising: determining a cost of the article ofapparel when manufactured by a first apparel production machine of theplurality of apparel production machines; determining a cost of thearticle of apparel when manufactured by a second apparel productionmachine of the plurality of apparel production machines; and determiningwhich of the first apparel production machine and the second apparelproduction machine has the lower cost of the article of apparel, whereintransmitting apparel production instructions to the selected apparelproduction machines comprises transmitting the apparel productioninstructions to the one of the first apparel production machine and thesecond apparel production machine that is determined to have the lowercost.
 22. The method of claim 21 wherein the cost of the article ofapparel when manufactured by the first apparel production machine andthe cost of the article of apparel when manufactured by the secondapparel production machine comprises a manufacturing cost and a shippingcost.
 23. A method of generating a custom apparel pattern, the methodcomprising: receiving first custom apparel information from a userinterface; generating first apparel information as a function of thefirst custom apparel information; generating a first custom apparelpattern as a function of the first custom apparel information and thefirst apparel information; storing the first custom apparel pattern in acustom apparel pattern database; and transmitting one or more of thefirst custom apparel pattern, information associated with the firstcustom apparel pattern, and information derived from the first customapparel pattern to an apparel production machine or machines to causethe apparel production machine or machines to make an article ofclothing.
 24. The method of claim 23 further comprising: selecting theapparel production machine or machines from a plurality of apparelproduction machines based at least in part on one or more of the firstcustom apparel pattern, information associated with the first customapparel pattern, and information derived from the first custom apparelpattern.
 25. The method of claim 23 further comprising: receiving secondcustom apparel information from a user interface; generating secondapparel information as a function of the second custom apparelinformation; generating a second custom apparel pattern as a function ofthe second custom apparel information, the second apparel information,and at least a portion of the custom apparel pattern database; andstoring the second custom apparel pattern in the custom apparel patterndatabase.
 26. The method of claim 23 further comprising: generating afirst initial apparel pattern as a function of the first custom apparelinformation; and storing the first initial apparel pattern in an initialapparel pattern database, wherein generating the first custom apparelpattern includes generating the first custom apparel pattern as afunction of the first initial apparel pattern.